Les Varennes du Grand Clos 2009
Les Varennes du Grand Clos 2009
○ Red wine - AOP Chinon
○ Sustainable agriculture - in organic conversion
○ Cabernet Franc - 13.5% vol.
○ Data Sheet
With a great deal of finesse, this wine can be enjoyed after 3 or 4 years. It is also a good wine to keep for up to 20 years.
Fillet of beef in a crust, veal with chanterelles...
2017 vintage press :
16,5 / 20 - Guide Bettane Desseauve 202016,5/20 - Guide RVF 2020In Vino Veritas - Feb 2020 : "Fine tannins and a slender profile make this a great terroir cuvee. "Wine Spectator - Sept 201993 pts "Very pure, featuring beautiful acidity that imparts freshness and energy, with cherry pit and red currant fruit notes gliding along. Medium tannins provide structure and support. The finish is long and expressive. Best from 2021 through 2029 "Les Echos, 2019 :" The great vintages of the Genet family's estate are a must in the Chinon region. Rabelais would make a whole supper of it and we'll make it the wine for Christmas Eve. A formidable density with this fluidity which is due to the freshness preserved by this great terroir. "Guide Hachette - 2020 - 2 stars: "Length, vivacity, smoothness, elegance... Adjectives flourish to underline the organoleptic qualities of this wine from the emblematic "Breton" who, according to Rabelais, "does not believe in Bretaigne but in this good Veron Country". A wine that expresses itself in a fresh style, with round supporting tannins.
Vintage 2016 press :
15 / 20 - Michel Bettane - Bettane Desseauve, En Magnum 2019 : "A pretty four hectare vineyard, of which a little more than three are in production, planted from 1962 to 1976 on a silico-limestone soil that extends the Clos de la Dioterie in Sazilly. You have to love Cabernet Franc and a little youthful austerity on a type of terroir that allows for good ageing. "92 / 100 - Wine Enthusiasts, 2019 : "This rich, wood-aged wine comes from a north-facing vineyard across the Vienne river from Chinon. Its tight tannins are still young as are the red-currant and berry fruits that shine through the structure. This wine obviously needs to age. 17 / 20 - RVF - Millésime Bio, 2019 : "A modern definition of refined tannins with a restraint that expresses the depth of the terroir. A magnificent chalky feel tones the tongue.Great vintage in the making "91 / 100 - Wine Spectator, 2019 : "A very fresh red, with cassis and rose hip flavors streaming from start to finish, fueled by sleek, lively acidity. The slightly chalky structure provides support and promises a long life ahead. An alluring Earl Grey tea aroma extends on the finish. Beautiful now, but give this a few more years. Best from 2021 through 2028. "16,5 / 20 - Le Figaro, 2019 : "Vanilla and coffee accompany the first notes of red fruits and spices in this wine with its superb structure and striking length."
Press vintage 2015 :
16,5 / 20 - RVF - Guide 2019 : "Superb dense material structured by a chalky and finely graphite framework, beautifully driven by a slender structure and great salivating length "93 / 100 - Wine Spectator, 2018 - "A pleasant bramble- and bay leaf - edged version, with a mix of dark cherry and red currant fruit forming the core. Light singed tobacco and fresh chalk threads line the finish. Long and refined, showing a lovely tug of earth at the end. "16,5 / 20 - Le Figaro, 2019 : "The wine already shows a lot of finesse on the nose, with scents of red berries, spices and noble wood. The wine is very well constructed and will gain in patina with time. The perfumes of this wine have developed well and the taste gives richness, solid black fruits and acidity. Tannins are still there, promising further aging. Drink from 2021."
2014 vintage press :
16 / 20 - RVF - Guide 201715,5 / 20 - Le Figaro, 2019 : "The nose is delicate, with notes of musk and sandalwood accompanying the fruit. The palate is lively and persistent. 16.5 / 20 - Bettane Desseauve - Guide 2015 "The great vintages (Clos de la Dioterie, 2ha of 80-year-old vines, Clos du Chêne Vert, 2ha in the village) are not intended for immediate consumption but they evolve perfectly. The cuvées Varennes du Grand Clos, Clos de la Dioterie and Clos du Chêne Vert are among the elite of Touraine. The estate has sought the right expression of very fine 2014s, without over-extraction.""Suave attack, texture that unfolds perfectly with a return to both fruit and spicy flowers. 92/100 - Wine Spectator, 2017 : "Juicy, with a light briary spine cutting through the mix of cherry, currant and plum fruit flavors. Notes of singed spice and black tea show on the slightly toasted finish. "Le Devoir, 2018, CA : "Les Varennes du Grand Clos 2014 The old vines here offer style, elegance and purity on a floral and fruity whole, with perfect harmony. (5 +)94 / 100 : Wine & Spirit Magazine, 2018 : "A sophisticated Chinon with redcurrant briskness and a floral buzz. Luscious and giving, it feels electric, the kind of franc that's hard to resist, and that works so well with kidneys, liver or other iron-rich meats. "Vin Québec, 2018, CA : "Les Varennes du Grand Clos 2014, from old vines over 40 years old, on a 4.5 ha plot. Again, skin maceration and malo and barrel ageing (6 months for this one, sometimes up to 16 months). Until recently, part of the vines (about 1 ha) on this plot were ungrafted (franc de pied), but this is no longer the case; phylloxera has had the upper hand... for the moment.The colour is ruby/purple, the nose intense, fruity (ripe red fruits), very spicy, with a slight floral note and a little wood. The palate is fat, ample, fruity, fresh, with fine tannins but still a little dry, without preventing a very nice balance. The finish is very dry, slightly astringent, fruity and very long. Promising, for those who have the patience to wait for it."
Press vintage 2013 :
15 / 20 - Bettane Desseauve - Guide 2016
16,5 / 20 - RVF - Guide 2016 :
"The efforts have paid off in overcoming the pitfalls of the difficult 2013 vintage: the Clos de la Plante Martin chenin is straight and chiselled, the Silenes fruit cabernet is fruity and just in its definition. Fresh and nervous, Les Petites Roches shows its fine and sinuous structure, to be drunk a little before Charmes, denser and fuller in its flavours. Straightforward and particularly pure, Les Varennes du Grand Clos is a refined Chinon with a firm and slender structure. Before bottling, Clos du Chêne Vert is imposing with its size and sap, and Clos de la Dioterie contains its power in a finely woven material: for keeping, but to be drunk before the 2012 and 2011.
2012 vintage press :
16,5 / 20 - Le Figaro - 2019 : "The nose is discreetly powdery, all sensuality, the palate is an explosion of juicy black berries, supported by a particularly flattering linen texture. "16,5 / 20 - RVF - 2015 : "This 4,5 ha parcel on the left bank of the Vienne River is distinguished by fine and elegant wines, with a beautiful scale and maturity in 2011, capable of evolving happily over 15 years. Very beautiful 2012, full and ample. 17 / 20 - Bettane Desseauve - Guide 20152** / 3 - Hachette - Guide 2015 : "This magnificent vintage comes from half-century-old vines planted on a terroir combining gravel and limestone. Careful vinification and twelve months' maturing in wood have given birth to this dashing Chinon with its dark, black colour and a nose of stewed red fruit enhanced by spicy and woody notes. On the palate, richness and structure are present: the fruit expresses itself freely and the tannins are solid. On the finish, a nice freshness is convincing".
2011 vintage press :
15,5 / 20 - Michel Bettane - Bettane Desseauve - En Magnum, 2019 :" Nice vineyard of four hectares, of which a little more than three are in production, planted from 1962 to 1976 on a silico-chalky soil which extends the Clos de la Dioterie in Sazilly. Much more complex nose, both root and truffle, with a return of cedar and tobacco in the tannic support. More character than 2012. "16 / 20 - Le Figaro, 2019 : "A deep raspberry nose, with a touch of tertiary aromas ( undergrowth ). The palate is juicy and shows a beautiful concentration of fruit and aromas. Very nice wine "16,5 / 20 - RVF - Guide 2014 :" We really like Les Varennes du Grand Clos, ripe and compact, with a good size. Its firm ageing seems to us to gain in finesse "17 / 20 - Bettane Desseauve - Guide 2014 : "A wine of slow construction. There is no doubt that it will reach the top. The juice is already superb!"
2010 vintage press :
16 / 20 - Michel Bettane - Bettane Desseauve - In Magnum, 2019 :
"Pretty vineyard of four hectares, of which a little more than three are in production, planted from 1962 to 1976 on a silico-chalky support which extends the Clos de la Dioterie in Sazilly.
Strong colour, full-bodied, a little fuller than the 2014, firm, complete in its construction on the palate and not yet mature. A vintage for long ageing that will not disappoint."
17,5 / 20 - Le Figaro, 2019 :
"The nose is breathtaking, very original, it evokes the nostalgia of a marcescent bouquet, with its notes of dried flowers accompanied by bourbon vanilla. The palate is ample and has a flattering grain."
16,5 / 20 - RVF - Guide 2013 :
"The nervous Varennes du Grand Clos is supported by a high quality breeding."
16,5 / 20 - Bettane Desseauve - Guide 2013
"Great texture, a supple and brilliant wine. The charms overshadow it, which is its only problem today."
2009 vintage press :
15 / 20 - Michel Bettane - Bettane Desseauve - In Magnum, 2019 : "A pretty vineyard of four hectares, of which a little more than three are in production, planted from 1962 to 1976 on a silico-chalky soil that extends the Clos de la Dioterie in Sazilly.Very generous and rooty on the nose, but more reminiscent of Italy and even Piedmont than of the Loire, no doubt because of the sunshine of the year. Drier and less accomplished tannin than in 2010, more open flavour, but demanding of the table. A good saddle of rabbit with sage, for example. "18 / 20 - Le Figaro, 2019 : "A wine at its best - The delicious tertiary nose (black truffle, undergrowth, ink) of this 100% Cabernet Franc grown on a great Chinon terroir is of remarkable complexity. The palate is lively, with superb depth. Beautiful wine at its peak during tasting. "91 / 100 - Wine Spectator - 2012 : "Richly layered, with smoldering tobacco and charcoal notes weaving through steeped blackberry, currant paste and mulled cherry fruit flavors. A charcoal edge hangs through the finish, lending a firm feel. "16 / 20 - Bettane Desseauve - Guide 2012 : "A great wine, well-bred, refined, for the moment in a powerful register but everything is there to make it a fine bottle within five years. "16 / 20 - RVF - Guide 2012 : "One does not find the overly dry and extinguished sides of the fruit in the 2009s, which take on a dimension of elegance, especially from the Cuvée de la Cure, which is seldom tasted with so much textural delicacy. In this spirit of finesse and substance, Les Charmes is already of rare seduction, hyperdigest in its peppery finish. Among the trilogy of terroir cuvées, we have a soft spot for the discreetly aged Varennes du Grand Clos (...) "91 / 100 - Wine Enthusiast, 2011 : "This is a lovely, ripe wine, its plum character very evident. It has a cool character as well, the acidity pushing through. Aged in wood (not new), the wine has a polished feel on the finish. "Hachette - Guide 2012: "These Varennes du Grand Clos come from clay-limestone and siliceous soils. The Cabernet Franc has been worked to give a wine for ageing. In the same vein as the 2007 (coup de coeur), this 2009 immediately attracts attention with its almost black purple colour. The aromas are also dark, with a beautiful complexity: in the glass, you can smell blueberry, blackcurrant, sloe, a whole range of ripe black fruits, with a touch of violet. Very concentrated, the palate is also appreciated for its tonic side which exalts the fruitiness of the finish. "A work of art", concludes one juror. And a party wine, which could last for a decade.
2008 vintage press :
15,5 / 20 - Michel Bettane - Bettane Desseauve - In Magnum, 2019 : "Nice vineyard of four hectares, of which a little more than three are in production, planted from 1962 to 1976 on a silico-chalky soil which extends the Clos de la Dioterie in Sazilly. Quite long, a classic and accomplished expression of left bank Chinon. 16/20 - RVF - Guide 2011 : "Nothing to say against a range of precise 2008s, held back by maturation worthy of the great Bordeaux wines. We will cellar the Varennes du Grand Clos (another 2 years), the Clos du Chêne Vert and de la Dioterie (a little more) and we can already savour the new cuvée les Charmes, which we just have to taste to validate its name.
2004 vintage press :
Michel Bettane - Bettane Desseauve - In Magnum 2019:
"Nice four-hectare vineyard, of which just over three are in production, planted from 1962 to 1976 on a silico-chalky base that extends the Clos de la Dioterie in Sazilly.
Notes of plum on the nose, some pepper too, some small analytical flaws, but some charm."
Vines
At the foot of the gravelly terrace, partly formed by the erosion of the limestone slope, this very special siliceous-clay and silico-limestone terroir is located on the left bank of the Vienne, in Sazilly.
These four and a half hectares of vines planted between 1962 and 1976 have an average yield of 40 hl/ha.
Vinification
Cold pre-fermentation maceration (10°C) for 10 days, a minimum of 4 weeks of vatting, vinification temperatures below 21°C and numerous well-adapted pump-overs (watering of the cap of marc) and pigeage (cap of marc formed in the upper part of the vat and pushed into the liquid part) are necessary to reveal the complexity of this cuvee.
At the end of the alcoholic fermentation, free-run wines and the best press wines are blended for malolactic fermentation in barrels. The French oak barrels that accompany the maturation of Varennes du Grand Clos are partially renewed each year to obtain a melted and integrated maturation. The barrel stock is composed of a few new barrels and barrels of 1 to 4 wines.
This cuvée continues its maturation in our cellars, in oak barrels for 15 to 16 months depending on the vintage.
After racking and the final blending between the barrels, Les Varennes du Grand Clos will be aged en masse (the wine will rest in the vat) for 6 months, before being bottled and brought to market.
Long-keeping wines, the Varennes nevertheless assert themselves from their youth by their finesse and elegance.